Callejon de Hamel: Afro-Cuban Culture in Havana

This two-block alley tucked between Aramburu and Hospital streets in Central Havana wasn’t a scheduled visit on our itinerary, but after a day of getting to know each other (basically me bragging about my beautiful multiracial children and showing off their pictures), our guide made the executive decision to take us to Callejon de Hamel… and wow, I’m so glad he did.

Things to do in Havana, Cuba: El Callejon de Hamel

According to our guide, this area of Central Havana was once quite unsavory and has since been transformed into the mesmerizing experience it is today: vibrant Cuban street art that covers every visible wall, the tantalizing rhythms of drums and immersion in Cuba’s Afro-Cuban culture. As we got out of the car, our guide gave us one tip of advice: move, speak and behave with respect, as the alley is a place for Santería, a Afro Cuban culture religion.

In fact, many of the photos from my My Beautiful Cuban People photography post are from right here in this area of central Havana. The callejon (which means alley) is right next to a secondary school and we happened to visit while the kids were getting out for the day. It’s funny to watch teenagers act like teenagers, regardless of where they call home.

Salvador Gonzalez: Father of Cuban Wall Art

Walking into the alleyway gives you the distinct feeling that you are in the presence of a singular influence like you’re strolling through someone’s heart and soul. That someone is Salvador Gonzalez Escalona, an Afro-Cuban painter, and sculptor well known for his murals around the world. The massive displays of Cuban wall art are littered with poems and saying, even famous quotes that reflect Cuban culture. Birthed by Salvador González, Callejon de Hamel in Centro Habana is also a place to shop for original art pieces by the founder himself, while enjoying specialty drinks and dancing with performers.

After browsing through his art gallery, I fell in love with a few of his pieces. I was hoping to chat with the artists himself but learned he was currently at his gallery in Spain. I ended up not buying any art that day, but if you are interested in doing so, bring lots of CUCs to buy one of his original art pieces (like $400 CUCs)!

You can read more about Salvador Gonzalez Escalona and also check out this short documentary of his baby, Callejon de Hamel, which was made in 2011. Since then the alleyway has seen a surge of improvements… and tourists. My Havana pictures in this post are from 2016 and depict a bright and full celebration of Cuban culture. My family visited again in 2018 and it continues to flourish in popularity.

Travel Tip: The Palador is Callejon de Hamel’s open-air bar. Order the Negron, their specialty drink, and enjoy the live music.

A Glimpse of Cuban Culture

I’ve read a bunch of reviews after our trip and I’ve fallen more in love with the place since we got back. This particular Callejon de Hamel review by Island Girl in Transit was great and I totally agree with her: the area of Centro Habana is unlike anything else. Yes, tourists are there… but don’t let that deter you. It’s truly a hub of Afro-Cuban culture.

Reviews also say to visit on Sundays during the midday for live rumba music, but go anytime you can. In fact, to avoid herbs of tourists, maybe plan to go twice. And then go again. We went during the week and came upon a performance of dancers and singers, a handful of travelers and the school kids getting out of the nearby high school. It was a beautiful afternoon.

To visitors, the murals, shrines and orishas mixed in with imagery of Cuban nationalism may seem very like an interesting blend, but to locals it’s a source of identity and heritage.

Travel Tip: Visit Callejon de Hamel on Sunday, midday. This is when the live music starts and people come out from to dance rumba on the streets. Or go any other day for authentic Afro-Cuban culture and a less touristy feel.

Cuba Itinerary for Kids

We sure to check out our Cuba itinerary with kids recommendations here:

Vinales Cuba: A Must for Cuba with Kids

Colorful Trinidad, Cuba with Kids – including the perfect Day Trip from Trinidad: Parque El Cubano

My only regret in visiting Callejon de Hamel with our kids is not spending more time there. After researching and learning more about, I can’t wait to come back with my family to soak up more of Havana’s hub of Afro-Cuban culture.

(update: We have since traveled back to my motherland and I’ve taken my kids to this mecca of Cuban culture. It’s as wonderful as I remember it to be.)